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Australia The Internet Science Technology

The Mining Town Where People Live Under the Earth (cnet.com) 105

Claire Reilly, writing for CNET: After spending a night in an underground rock cave in the middle of the Australian desert, I learned three things: The silence is deafening. Your eyes never adjust to the darkness. And if nobody brushes the ceiling before you arrive, that clump of dirt is going to scare the living hell out of you when it drops on your face at 2 a.m. I've flown 1,200 miles for the privilege of sleeping in a hole in Coober Pedy. There's no Wi-Fi down here. The glare of my MacBook feels obnoxious in the subterranean stillness. The TV plays ads for a "local" cleaning service from the next town over, but that just happens to be 400 miles away. Australia is a country defined by "the tyranny of distance," but traveling to the underground opal mining town of Coober Pedy feels like taking a holiday on Mars.

In the middle of the South Australian desert and an eight hour drive in either direction from the nearest capital city (Adelaide to the south or Alice Springs to the north), Coober Pedy is off the grid and mostly hidden underground. More than half the residents live buried in the bedrock in cavelike homes called "dugouts" in order to escape freezing winters, scorching summers and the occasional cyclone. Often, the only sign you're walking on someone's roof is the air vent that's sprouted up next to your boots. While first nation peoples have lived in the central Australian desert for thousands of years, the Coober Pedy we know today wouldn't exist without opals. Miners rushed here in the 1920s, enduring extreme conditions to hunt for the multicolored gems, digging, bulldozing and eventually blasting out earth in a bid to find the elusive seam that would make them rich. Living in Coober Pedy is not just about surviving. It's about carving out a way of life in one of the harshest environments on the planet.

[...] "It's not like we're living thousands of kilometers under the ground," he tells me. "It's pretty similar to living in a normal house." Sam's family, who live in a dugout close to Crocodile Harry's, have solar panels for power -- but those generate only enough electricity for a few hours a day. Diesel handles the rest, he says. "We have to rely on tourists to pay for our fuel," he says. "Gasoline is valuable out here. Fuel is really expensive." That means no fridge running all day and night -- they keep nonperishable food and get the rest from town every day. Otherwise, life is pretty similar to what other 18-year-olds in the city experience. Sam says he can still charge his phone and use the TV "for a bit." "We have internet when the generator's on. Dad's got an Xbox but we don't even try to use the solar for that."

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The Mining Town Where People Live Under the Earth

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  • by careysub ( 976506 ) on Monday August 13, 2018 @12:41PM (#57117324)

    That means no fridge running all day and night.

    The average energy drain of modern refrigerator is 25-40 watts. Actual power drain while the compressor is running is 100-150 watts. If they have any power at all on a 24 hour basis they should be able to run a refrigerator, though perhaps not open the door for part of the day to keep the compressor from kicking on. Since they do have power part of the day for sure, a 0.5 kWh battery should cover the refrigerator nicely.

    • by Oswald McWeany ( 2428506 ) on Monday August 13, 2018 @12:50PM (#57117386)

      That means no fridge running all day and night.

      The average energy drain of modern refrigerator is 25-40 watts. Actual power drain while the compressor is running is 100-150 watts. If they have any power at all on a 24 hour basis they should be able to run a refrigerator, though perhaps not open the door for part of the day to keep the compressor from kicking on. Since they do have power part of the day for sure, a 0.5 kWh battery should cover the refrigerator nicely.

      Refrigerators use more power when upside down.

    • by EvilSS ( 557649 )
      Using chest refrigerators (like a chest freezer, but not as cold) would increase the efficiency quite a bit since they don't dump all the cold air out each time you open them.
    • So they shouldn't have a problem if they just provide more power? You sound like you live somewhere where cheap power is a thing.

  • Towards the end, Jedediah the Pilot and his son live in a cave hideout at the end of the railroad line. I believe that was shot in Coober Pedy. listed in the credits.

    • Mike Rowe did a Dirty Jobs episode featuring Coober Pedy as well. Was a pretty interesting episode, and shows just how desolate a lot of Australia really is.
      • Re: (Score:3, Insightful)

        by AbRASiON ( 589899 ) *

        Much of it is very very un-inhabitable. Doesn't change our government(s) pushing for incredibly crazy high immigration rates AND not spending money on infrastructure.

        They get paper based GDP growth and 'the numbers go higher' for many things but the actual standard of living quality, job quantity and wage growth is going bad bad bad for people.

        They don't care, this is a huge country, shovel em all in! What could go wrong?
        (Golly, why are more and more people homeless, unemployed or working 3 separate part t

        • Sounds like they're copying from John Key's playbook. They were so enamoured with him, for some reason.

        • Doesn't change our government(s) pushing for incredibly crazy high immigration rates AND not spending money on infrastructure.

          The problem really is the combination of the two. Our high immigration rates wouldn't be an issue if we weren't trying to shove them all into capital cities. And it wouldn't make very much infrastructure investment in regional centres to make the problem basically go away.

  • Take a look at the houses in the story. Nice circular doorways, round rooms. They could use some sprucing up of the paneling and such, but it looks like a Hobbit burrow.

  • by sjbe ( 173966 ) on Monday August 13, 2018 @12:49PM (#57117384)

    Otherwise, life is pretty similar to what other 18-year-olds in the city experience.

    Ummm, no it isn't. It isn't much like life in any city. Not saying it's better or worse but it definitely isn't what I'd call similar. For one thing I'm pretty confident the dating scene isn't exactly a target rich environment. And 24/7 access to electricity and places to go use it is not a trivial difference.

    • Otherwise, life is pretty similar to what other 18-year-olds in the city experience.

      Ummm, no it isn't. It isn't much like life in any city. Not saying it's better or worse but it definitely isn't what I'd call similar. For one thing I'm pretty confident the dating scene isn't exactly a target rich environment. And 24/7 access to electricity and places to go use it is not a trivial difference.

      I lived in Australia (Melbourne) as a kid in the 60s. My first impression was that it was like living in the US 20 years ago. Not in a bad way, we still had creature comforts, but life was...simpler. We learned about Coober Pedy in school. I remember seeing a semaphore traffic light in a country town we drove through: it was a clock face, divided into red, yellow and green sectors. A hand went around the clock face. I thought it was the coolest thing ever.

      In the Melbourne suburbs (2d biggest city in Aus

      • *banking*

        And by "20 years ago", I mean 1940. It was just more "Andy Griffith Mayberry". I was in 3rd grade, and I walked home a mile from school every day. Didn't think a thing of it.

        • There are towns and cities in the US with no school bus system -- kids either walk or take public transportation. I know, I grew up in such a place.
          • And by "20 years ago", I mean 1940. It was just more "Andy Griffith Mayberry". I was in 3rd grade, and I walked home a mile from school every day. Didn't think a thing of it.

            There are towns and cities in the US with no school bus system -- kids either walk or take public transportation. I know, I grew up in such a place.

            We don't have school buses in Finland, and it's common for students to walk or cycle a couple of km to school. We're such a backwards country.

            (When I was in school in the 80s/90s, you'd get free public transportation or taxi to school if the trip was more than 5 km one way. I don't know if that has changed, but I still don't see any school buses around.)

      • by ghoul ( 157158 )

        Electric trams otherwise known as light rail are present in many cities and more American cities are catching up. SO maybe the 2030s not the 1930s.

        What the author probably means is teenagers in most advanced cities live in the basement playing video games so no difference (poor attempt at a joke I will grant you)

    • by Kjella ( 173770 )

      Ummm, no it isn't. It isn't much like life in any city. Not saying it's better or worse but it definitely isn't what I'd call similar. For one thing I'm pretty confident the dating scene isn't exactly a target rich environment. And 24/7 access to electricity and places to go use it is not a trivial difference.

      I guess he wants to say something like "We live in caves, but we're not cavemen" because the reporter is there to make an article on this primitive society but they have TV, phones, computers, Internet and an Xbox. Like many tourist destinations it's now probably more or less a sham where they put on a show but in reality live much more modern, mundane lives. I remember seeing a documentary about a guy who stayed with a tribe in the Amazon for a long time, like much longer than a tourist group or news crew

  • So pretty much Mad Max already.

  • by Anonymous Coward

    ... in the blue sky mine
    there'll be food on the table tonight.

  • Interesting place to visit, but I woyuldn't want to live there. Spent a few days in Coober Pedy during January, 1992 when I was working down south in Woomera. Pretty much a ghost town at that time of year. Crocodile Harry's was a hoot. Took a day trip with a fellow who delivered mail to some of the stations to the east. 300 km on dirt roads for six deliveries.
    • Spent a few days in Coober Pedy during January, 1992

      If you are an expert on Coober Pedy, does that make you a Coober Pedy-phile?

  • by Anonymous Coward

    Firstly Alice Springs isn't a Capital City. Darwin is the Capital of the Northern Territory and it's another 13 hour drive (at 70-80mph) after Alice Springs to get there.

    Like all mining towns it's dirty, expensive and doesn't offer much in the way of culture. It exists just because of its location and when the gems are all dug up it will be left as a series of holes in the ground. There are similar places in the US.

  • by Anonymous Coward

    Capital of the Northern Territory is Darwin... another ~1500km further North.

  • by Anonymous Coward

    Clearly the author of the story possesses neither a map nor any knowledge of Australia. A few corrections to the story: Coober Pedy is not in the "middle of the South Australian desert", it's near the border between two deserts. Failure to understand such things has resulted in others losing their lives due after making poor decisions. Alice Springs is not a capital city, not even close, it's a regional centre. Those "holes in the ground" provide very comfortable living indeed. It seems the author is just a

    • He didn't need to say "MacBook" at all, he could have just said "laptop." He wouldn't have said "the light from my HP Spectre" in the same way. At least not without being shouted down as a complete sellout. Unless that's what he meant by "obnoxious."

  • "The Mole People"
  • by aberglas ( 991072 ) on Monday August 13, 2018 @07:08PM (#57119494)

    Which is important there. They also have plenty of mining equipment on hand to dig the holes. They still cost more than an above ground house. But in the heat, you want to be down. Most are dug into the side of a hill.

    Cooper Pedy is a wild, unruly place. Lots of people living on the edge trying to strike it rich by finding that one rich seam of opal. Many small mines owner operated. Everybody secretive about what they find. You do not want to be too curious wondering around the mine sites or you might end up joining the many bodies thought to be buried under various shafts.

    Worth a visit.

    • It definitely is. If for no other reason than the novelty of the sign on the way in: "Caution, don't run, deep holes, don't walk backwards"

  • > the government mandates that NBN provides equal internet access to all Australians

    It would appear the author somehow slipped into an almost-parallel dimension and has been to the other Australia.

  • "That means no fridge running all day and night." That's why Uncle Owen told Luke he's shutting down the power for the night. Including the refr. Although Aunt Buru does use an electric food processor.

  • Elan Musk has already proven that his company can provide solar and battery power to large areas. It would be pocket change for him to toss out a small farm to provide constant residential power to this place. It would also fit is rather eccentric personality to do so. I'm honestly surprised he hasn't done so already to proof of concept his solution to isolated power grids.
  • the next town over, but that just happens to be 400 miles away

    get the [nonperishable food] from town every day

    I had to re-read the article at first, thinking it was saying they were 400 miles out of town, and went 400 miles for food every day. And finally realized "Oh, THEIR TOWN is 400 miles away from the next town." Something about this writer's article made me feel like these were just random rovers living in holes I guess. I especially like that the writer complains about his eyes never adjusting to the darkness while at the same time talking about using assumably full brightness on his Macbook.

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